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How to check bag quality II

April 19, 2024

OK. Here I will list the next key points of bag "terminology" and "characteristics" for you.

 

4. Fabric

Fabrics are divided into two types: canvas and leather.

The quality of natural canvas mainly depends on the "density" of the fabric

The calculation unit of canvas fabric density is based on metric system, which refers to the number of warp and weft yarns arranged within 10cm. The density directly affects the physical and mechanical indicators of the fabric such as appearance, feel, thickness, strength, flexural resistance, air permeability, abrasion resistance and thermal insulation performance. It is also related to the cost and production efficiency of the product.

There are two methods for measuring warp and weft density:

 

(1) Direct measurement method

The direct measurement method is accomplished by relying on a cloth mirror or a fabric density analysis mirror. Under the analysis lens, there is a red line engraved on a long glass piece. When analyzing the fabric density, move the lens and align the red line on the glass piece and the red line on the scale between two yarns at the same time. Use this as a starting point. While moving the camera, count the number of yarns until the 5cm mark is reached. Multiply the output number of yarns by 2, which is the density value of 10cm fabric.

When counting the number of yarns, the center between the two yarns should be used as the starting point. If the count reaches the end point, it exceeds 0.5 yarns and is less than one yarn. It should be counted as 0.75 yarns; if it is less than 0.5 yarns, then Calculated as 0.25 roots. Generally, 3-4 data should be measured for fabric density, and then the arithmetic mean value should be taken as the measurement result.

 

(2) Indirect testing method

This method is suitable for fabrics with high density and regular weave with small yarn characteristics. First, after analyzing the fabric structure and the number of weft threads in its tissue circulation (the number of weft threads in the tissue circulation), and then multiplying by the number of tissue circulations in 10cm, the resulting product is the warp (weft) density.

The difference between genuine leather and PU (artificial leather):

1) Tactile recognition: If your hand touches the leather surface, if it feels smooth, soft, plump and elastic, it is genuine leather.

2) Visual recognition: The surface of genuine leather has clear pores and natural texture, yellow cowhide has more symmetrical fine pores, buffalo leather has thicker and sparse pores, and goatskin has fish-scale pores.

3) Smell recognition: Artificial leather has a pungent plastic smell, while genuine leather has a leather smell. Artificial leather fibers have a pungent smell and form lumps when burned, while dermal fibers have a burning smell of hair and do not form lumps when burned.

Artificial leather and synthetic leather also have the following characteristics:

Press the leather surface with your fingers. There will be no obvious pores and wrinkles. If there are wrinkles after pressing, they will not disappear obviously. The surface of artificial leather is pore-free.

 

5. Hardware

Hardware is divided into "iron wire" and "alloy". To identify it, just use a magnet. The iron wire can be attracted tightly, and the opposite is alloy. The "alloy" ones are more expensive than the "iron wire" ones! The surface material of the hardware after "oil sealing" is not easily oxidized by air. So what kind of hardware has been oil-sealed? Two points:

1. Smell it with your nose, it smells like gas oil

2. There is a slight greasy feeling when touched by hand.

 

6. Line (the term is "car line")

The outside of the bag body is generally made of 20# (thicker) nylon thread, the inside is generally made of 40# (thinner) nylon thread, and the lining is generally made of cotton thread (604 is thicker, 606 is thinner) ). The handbag industry's stitch density requirement for "stitching" is "seven stitches per inch". Generally, mid- to high-end bags are produced more strictly in accordance with this standard.


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